Terrific, Terrifying and Terrible Tanzania

 Terrific, Terrifying and Terrible Tanzania

The Tanzanian part of our adventure has been interesting to say the least.  It was a country of very long drives, hot weather, the worst roads we have traveled on so far, bad traffic, rich in history and amazing animals.  The pictures are put at the end of the text as I don’t have time to organize them properly and the wifi is very slow here in Nairobi.

I will explain the meanings of the words in the title.  Terrific were the game drives and camping in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater (much more on this later) and the history and views from Zanzibar.  Terrifying were the camping in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater (more on this later).  Terrible were the roads –both in condition, construction and speed humps (mini mountains)-, also the stomach issues in Zanzibar (Montezuma’s revenge in Mexico has nothing on this).

Our journey here started with an uneventful border crossing and a 12+ hour drive (bounced around a lot) which brought us to the outskirts of Dar Es Salam (the countries capital) which was very warm and traffic congested.  It puts the Toronto traffic into the fast lane.  There is no semblance of organization.  It’s everyone for themselves with city buses doing whatever they wanted.  Below is a picture of one of the buses in traffic (this is on the main highway and people just hop on and off since we are not going very fast). The temperature at the time was in the high 30’s with a humidex in the high 40’s. We didn’t even get to the campground.  We ended up getting off the truck and took tuk tuks which moved much faster.  The truck got to the campground 2 hours later. Racing each other through congested streets was the best part of the day.  The drivers are nuts. (sorry no pictures – we were just hanging on)

The second day had us up early on onto the ferry that took us to the island of Zanzibar.  This island has a very strict Muslim culture and the women had to dress appropriately (no visible shoulders or legs).  They have had incidents in the past where women were attacked for not dressing appropriately.  The first night in Zanzibar had us staying in Stone Town.  This place has a lot of history and is very dirty.  The slaves were sold here at the slave market in town.  The buildings were very interesting and the street mazes reminded us of some of the areas in Europe and old Quebec City.  We got lost a lot and were being constantly bombarded with shop owners trying to hock their wares.  Our group definitely stands out in the crowds.  The second and third days saw us drive to the north end of the island to a beach resort.  We were definitely not expecting this type of travel but it was definitely welcome as we were able to recharge ourselves and slow down a bit.  The last day on the island saw us back down in Stone Town and this is where I (Dan) had some real stomach issues ( I passed out in the hotel for hours and made many and powerful visits to the toilet)

After Zanzibar we made a big push the Serengeti (a very large grassland national park with an unbelievable amount of animals – I only set some of the pictures). Here are the highlights and terrifying times.  We boarded our jeeps for the safaris.  The leopard is one of the hardest animal to see and we were able to find three different ones (even our local guide said to seeing that many is extremely rare)  We got up close (in the jeeps) to almost all the animals.  The elephants, lions and leopards seemed to be the favourites of most of the safari trucks.  I have a lot more to tell on this but will explain more when we get home.

Now for the terrifying stuff -well maybe not so terrifying as amazing.  Our accommodations in the Serengeti and on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater were our tents.  Keep in mind there are no fences around the campgrounds and all the animals roam free and we found out this included the area where our tents were.  In the Serengeti we were instructed to stay in our tents at night but one of the ladies from our group thought it would be ok to go out at 5:30 am since this is when we were supposed to start breakfast.  What she failed to hear was the sound of the lions in our camp.  (We had been hearing the zebra and wildebeest all night long and only the lions from just before 5) She was quickly and loudly instructed to get back into her tent unless she wanted to get eaten.  The lions left and we exited our tents and got ready for the day.  As we exited the tent area we found out why the lions had left – they had killed a wildebeest right beside the road – right outside our camp - and were feasting.  What a great way to start the day.  The rest of the Serengeti was just as

amazing.  That night we headed to the rim of the Ngorongoro crater (a large caldera formed when the volcano that was there erupted and left its mark).  This is when the next two terrifying (amazing) things happened.  We were milling about awaiting supper (they have caged in pavilions and for good reason we found out as this area also has many wild animals around)  They have armed guards (not like in the Serengeti) here but not for our protection but for the animals.  They hire Masai warriors to do the guarding and these guys mean business.  Look them up to find out why they are so fearsome – if not wait till we get home and we’ll tell you.  Enough on that and back to the animals.  As we awaited supper a large bull elephant wandered into camp –some idiots thought it would be ok to go right up to it and take photos (the masai warriors were quick to react).  We though the entertainment was over – wrong.  The elephant came right up to the pavilion and then stole food from the kitchen area before they started banging pots and pans to scare the thing away.  After supper we socialized for a bit and then went to our tents.  Part way through the night 

Lisa needed to go to the bathroom and we were getting ready to leave the tent when we could here munching sounds right outside our tent and smell was very powerful.  We waited about a half an hour until the noise went away and went to the bathroom.  There was nothing we could see in the area and thought nothing more.  Later on in the night we heard the noises and had the smells again on the other side of our tents.  It turns out we had a herd of cape buffalo grazing around the tents.  As with the Serengeti if there are grazing animals then there will be predators and scavengers.  We then heard the lions, hyenas and jackals in the area but nothing much happened the rest of the night.  Morning had us descend the crater and go on our last game drive for a while.  The first thing we saw was a pride of lions with a kill and a bunch of cubs.  The day continued for the hunt for the last of the big five (the rhino).  We eventually spotted two in the distance.  Our safari was now complete.  Those two nights and days have been an unbelievable experience that mere words cannot describe.

We are now in Nairobi, Kenya awaiting the next leg of our adventure.  I am not sure about wifi for the next 14 days but will try and post when I can.  We hope those of you that had March Break had a wonderful time and for those of you who did not, we hope you are well. 

Kenyan Family Robinson

Getting some local fruit

Human Pickup trucks for hire

Bringing home the daily water

That must hurt the neck

Another use for a bicycle

Crowded bus and traffic jam

Lisa in the market area of Stone Town

Car pooling

Narrow streets of Stone Town

Fishing Boats In Northern Zanzibar

Heading to the beach from the resort

Enjoying the beach in northern Zanzibar

Mud walled village

Mt Kilimanjaro above the clouds

Mt Kilimanjaro with a Mt Kilimanjaro beer

Going Bananas

Taking home some local fruit

Young Masai

Two Black Rhino

Elephant stealing food from the kitchen

Zany Zambia and Memorable Malawi

Zany Zambia

Border crossings have been interesting but the one from Botswana into Zambia is better than the rest so far.  Checking out of Botswana was uneventful, getting into Zambia was a bit more interesting.  We had to walk to a ferry that took us across the river.  Below is a photo of the safety equipment.  We didn’t feel that safe.  The ferry was overloaded with people and trucks (water was close to the deck).  Once in Zambia we had to wait for the immigration guy to show to work.  There was only one guy to do the passport work and they just stroll into work whenever they want and work whenever they want.  It took us a bit of time but we made it.

This is supposed to be a life ring and life jacket

Once in Zambia we traveled to Livingstone for four days.  Lisa and I decided to get off the ground and upgraded to a room which overlooked the Zambizi River just upstream from Victoria Falls.  We were not expecting any resorts on our trip but we have had a couple so far and this was a nice one.  Below is a view from our room out onto the river and a picture of the monkeys playing in the trees outside or room.

This is the room view, excuse the laundry

Monkeys in a tree outside our room

In Livingstone there were plenty of adventures to be had from bungee jumping, to ultralight flights, to an all you can drink and eat cruise on the river.  Lisa and I did the ultralights over Victoria Falls (it was amazing – we do have photos from the air but can’t upload them since they are on a CD and we don’t have a CD drive on the computer).  Lisa even had a chance to fly the ultralight.  We also went on the all you can consume cruise. (I’m not as young as I think I am and was a little foggy the next morning – when security had to tell our group to get out of the bar side pool and calm down we knew we had a good time)  Some of our group did the most insane thing I could imagine.  They went to a spot called Angels Pool.  It is a back eddy three meters from the edge of the falls and sat in it for a bit.  One of the guys slipped coming out and had to be grabbed by the guide and one of the other group members.  He was a little scared as he was less than a meter from going over the falls.  Afterwards we found out that 2 to 3 people die each year doing that activity.  Only in Africa.

Ultralights

The Cruise

Panoramic Victoria Falls

Raw Power

Baboons on the Victoria Falls Trail

Lisa and I also went to view Victoria Falls from the ground.  We got soaked and had a great time.  We did have to watch out for the baboons that were on all the trails around the falls.  There were few barriers and the ones they did have were not that strong.  I guess they believe in Darwin’s theory and that if you are crazy enough to do things then so be it.  They must not have a lot of lawyers in Africa.

 

Memorable Malawi

Crossing into Malawi was the same as going into Zambia minus the ferry crossing.  We had to wait for the border people to show up and then to do their jobs.  TIA (This Is Africa).  Our first stop had us at a campground where as soon as we opened the gates to get in a few zebra followed the truck.  They were all around the site and it was amazing to watch them as we prepared dinner and ate.  

Zebra at the campsite.  You can see us getting things ready.

We then drove quite a distance to the base of Lake Malawi.  This lake has the largest variety of fish anywhere in the world (This is where most of the fresh water tropical fish come from that we see in our fish tanks back home)  Lisa and I went snorkeling at one of the islands and below are a few pictures.

We stayed at a place called Kande Beach (a bit of a party place).  Lisa and I upgraded again to a very musty smelling room (at least we could sleep as we were away from the noise – the rest of the group looked weary as some of the other groups had a bit too much fun and the variety of noises kept them awake).  We did have some nighttime visitors (little lizards are everywhere) and we had to make sure our stuff was zipped up (we didn’t want to take them along for the journey).

We named this one Fred and the other Ethel

Our next stop was at the northern end of the lake.  What a contrast.  The scenery was amazing.  The lake was extremely warm.  We were guessing it was in the low 90F.  It was not very refreshing (sorry for those of you in the freezing temperatures back home).  It was interesting as we were all moving around to find the cold patches of water.

Panoramic view from the beach

Lisa reading a ibook.  There was no wifi in Malawi

The trip changed in Malawi as well.  We went from a lot of animals to more culture.  The long drives (we are averaging around 500km a day) brought us past some interesting sights.  Below are some of those sights.  The one photo does need more explanation.  We stopped at the side of the road to have lunch.  There was a small grouping of huts on the other side of the road.  Soon the locals came out to see what was going on.  Our group was playing with a ball at the side of the road as we waited for lunch.  Soon the local children were involved with the play and were throwing the ball back and forth on the highway (this is the typical highway in Africa – similar to the back roads in Canada).  The kids were thrilled when we left the ball with them.

They walk or ride everywhere

Locals doing laundry

Ox and cart for those who can afford it

Car pooling

Getting the daily water

Cute little boy eating corn

All the highways look like this.  It is crazy.

The local mall

Street markets

Wheelbarrows for hire, including worker.

Used tyres (tires) anyone

Bicycle taxi stand.  Yes you sit on the back rack.

Not too overloaded

Playing with the village kids at the roadside lunch.

It is a problem here and education is the key.

Stopping to look in the local shops.

Lisa and I also did a village tour where we saw where they lived, the crops that they grew and visited a local school and hospital.  Below are some of the pictures of these places.  The school has a population of 1500 kids with only 10 teachers.  The kids sit on the floor (150 of them) with only one teacher in the class.  The school day starts at 645 am with kids sweeping out the class and getting the class ready.  Class starts at 700 am and ends between 1200 and 200 depending on grade level.  They all wear uniforms (most only have one uniform which looks very tired).  While at the school and walking through the village the kids would commonly come up and hold your hand and if we took pictures they would swarm the camera to see themselves.  The boys would act up in the photos and then laugh at themselves and each other while looking at the pictures.

The hospital was also interesting.  There was a lady that had just had her baby that morning.  Lisa and I donated our mosquito netting to her and her newborn son.  Malaria is very real and very deadly for them.  They constantly do blood tests so they can catch it in the early stages before it is too late (one of the photos shows the testing area)

Mom and her newborn son.

This is the maternity ward

Checking for malaria

Canada is very present in Malawi as some of the school supplies and the village water pumps were donated us.  

Water pump donated by Canada.

Below are just some random pictures.

They use knives for can openers

Pretty bird building its nest

Tapping a rubber tree

Drying kassava.  Boy does it stink.

Inside one of the locals homes

Another picture inside one of the homes

The exchange rate takes getting used to.  These are all 1000 Malawi Kwacha.

We are now on the north end of the island of Zanzibar in Tanzania.  I will post the Tanzania blog once we have left the country in a little over a week.  Our next wifi connection most likely will not be until Nairobi, Kenya.  Right now we are staying at beautiful resort (Lisa and I were not expecting this part of the trip – we thought we would be tenting it all the way but this is a very pleasant surprise)  More on this in the next blog.  We are heading to Arusha and the Masai natives then to the Serengeti then the Ngorongoro crater.  No wifi in any of those places.  Lisa and I are also getting better at speaking Swahili.  For those of you that have posted comments asente sana (thank you very much).      

Tanzanian Family Robinson